Out of the Blue: Cockle Park Tower

© Neville Young and licensed for reuse

under this Creative Commons Licence.

Just when you begin to think of yourself as a bit of an 'expert' as regards the history of your particular patch of the country, up pops another little unknown nugget to knock you down a peg or two. Whilst casually exploring the back roads of our new home near Morpeth the other day, my wife and I drove past this beauty a couple of miles or so north of the town. I didn't have time to stop and get a photo, so nicked the above image from Wikipedia.

I'm sorry to say that I didn't even know Cockle Park Tower existed! And it must be, I reckon, the best-looking (and best-preserved) pele tower in the whole of the North-East. I mean, just look at it. Magnificent! It was one of those famous defensive creations of the sixteenth century, when the threat from the Scots to the north still dominated the thoughts and minds of well-to-do families with plenty to lose.

Those who lived in the border lands at this troubled time were always looking for ways to protect themselves and their possessions from bad-tempered Scotsmen, feuding border reivers and marauding mosstroopers. Fairly well-off families built bastles, and the ranks above them built pele towers. The Cockle Park affair was built by Sir William Ogle, the 4th lord of his line, and dates originally, we think, to around 1520 - ostensibly as a 'hunting lodge', but clearly also built for defence. As you can see, it has three stories (plus an attic), and is topped by what are described as "corbelled-out bartizans, with machicolation between" - a clear indication of the builders' defensive intentions.

It has been altered plenty over the centuries, of course; and after the Unification of the Crowns in 1603, it gradually softened its look and feel as the threat from the dark corners of the region began to subside. The female Ogle line married into the Cavendish family, who themselves became the Dukes of Portland. When the old Ogle property of Bothal Castle was being renovated in the 1800s many of the fitting of the tower were transferred there.

It survived for many years as a simple farmhouse, though it had its periods of decline and neglect. Interestingly, the farm as a whole (tower included) was utilised by the Duke of Portland as long ago as the 1820s as a ground-breaking experimental farm, which, coincidentally, it still operates as today, under the guidance of Newcastle University.

Anyway, that's the gist of it. More can be found at the Fabulous North website, and there is much interesting detail to be found in Issue 21 (2014) of Archaeology in Northumberland (in an article compiled during its recent renovation).

Preston Pele Tower

On our way back from our Farne Islands boat trip the other day (see previous post), we just had enough time to call in at a place which I'd passed loads of times without giving it a second thought. It's Preston Pele Tower, about a mile south of Chathill, Northumberland. Though there is no fee to pay, you are politely requested to drop £4 into the honesty box.

It's an odd-looking affair, its slenderness resulting from its partial demolition at some point in the past - probably after the union of the crowns in 1603. It is supposed to have four corner turrets, giving the appearance of a sort of mini-castle, but all that remains are the two southern towers. It is essentially half a pele tower.

It was built in the 1390s, at a time when the border region was ablaze with Anglo-Scottish rivalry - to say nothing of the rapidly accelerating uncertainty of the Border Reiver era. Families with something to protect felt it necessary to build such fortifications - though I'm not sure which clan was responsible for this splendid fourteenth century effort. It does, though, bear the same masons' marks as those found at Warkworth Castle.

Above can be seen the tower's clock face (actually, in has one on each side of the tower), added by owner, Henry Baker Cresswell, in 1864 during renovation work to the structure.

Upon arrival - and assuming there are no 'functions' taking place at the location - there is nothing and nobody to stop the casual visitor from entering and having a wander around the internal bits. The rooms are spread out over several floors and are tiny, but have been 'done out' in typical olde worlde style, as you can see from the pics below (please excuse my wife getting in the way):

Here are the workings of the clock:

And here is the scene from the top storey:

(yes, that's Angie again, I'm afraid, who appears to be vomiting over the parapet)

And, of course, the obligatory Information Panels (click on images to enlarge):

The light was dying fast on our brief visit, so my apologies for the iffy photos. As I hinted at earlier, the site hosts events from time to time, so unless you're 'just passing' and fancy calling in on spec then it's best to give them a ring first. Website here.

Whittingham, Callaly ... and a Mystery Solved!

My wife, Angie, and I went for a wander in Northumberland today. We parked up at Whittingham for starters, right next to the church of St.Bartholomew. What a beauty:

We then headed west, and cut across the fields to begin following the Callaly Burn:

Working our way SW then S, we popped along a dead-end track to have a look at the likely site of an old Norman motte & bailey castle. It's where the post is in the picture below. Angie didn't think it was worth the diversion, but, well, you can't pass up the opportunity of something as exciting as this!:

(It's at NU05231045 if you're interested)

On we pressed. To the SE could be seen Thrunton Wood - the middle peak below being Castle Hill, which we would visit later:

And here's the NW entrance to Callaly Castle. Private, though, so we couldn't get a look at it I'm afraid: 

A few yards further on, one of many such old finger posts:

And on reaching the little village of Callaly, could be found another decrepit effort:

On leaving Callaly I turned around for a quick snap. And that's an old Roman road, you know (again, wife not especially impressed):

We then left the road and headed in a southerly direction up and into the moorland - and towards Thrunton Wood. Then we skirted around this funny shaped rock:

On approaching the same I realised that I'd been here before ... some 45 years ago. OK, the lighting and photo quality differs, but I was thrilled - I'd been wondering where this spot was for years! (it's at NU05450827 if you really want to know): 

Me, 2025...

Dad, Mam & Tina, 1980 (taken by a 15-year-old me)

Then it was over the moors in a (roughly) northerly direction, and, during a severe downhill scramble we came across this beauty:

Macartney's Cave

And thence onto Castle Hill, an old Iron Age hillfort: 

Approaching the summit...

... And the summit plateau

There followed a confused and difficult descent from Castle Hill, through a mass of fallen trees, to eventually hit the Callaly-Whittingham road to the north. Chance of a rest here, first, though:

Rather than taking the direct route back to the car, I insisted on bagging another trig point. A modest effort, elevation-wise, a little to the south of Whittingham. Well, you've got to haven't you?:

Just time for a final little wander through Whittingham. Here's an old pant, with the Old Court House in the background:

Oh, and there's the Pele Tower, too:

About 8 or 9 miles in all, I reckon. We wandered a bit in places (as you can tell), so I really don't think it wise to display a map showing our route! What a lovely day, though - and plenty of interest to see.

[Note: Callaly and its many castle sites (five, we think) is an interesting corner of the county, even if you can't see the latest iteration of the same due to it being private. I discussed the matter in Volume 3 of The Great North-East: An English History Tour - see left-hand column for link]