On Wednesday 30th March 2022, I found myself in Houghton-le-Spring for, I think, the first time ever. Now, every time I go somewhere new I conduct a little research to see if I can identify a few historical highlights for my pending visit. So, with Paul Lanagan's 'Houghton Heritage Trail' leaflet in my hand I set forth....
I knew a little bit about the place, I admit. When carrying out research for a couple of articles on my old 'North-East History Tour' blog a few years ago, I was well aware of the famous Bernard Gilpin and the related Gilpin Thorn. At the very least, I wanted to see what I could uncover about these two topics.
It was a cold, sleety day when my wife and I pulled up in the Station Road car park. After a cursory glance in the shops on Newbottle Street, we emerged into the open space beyond the White Lion pub. And there it was: The parish church of St.Michael & All Angels - a huge affair, within which I would, I hoped, be able to find Bernard Gilpin's tomb. With an icy drizzle angling across my lens, I took a photo or two, then proceeded towards the door. Locked! Inside the porch and through the tightly-secured gate I could make out cheery 'open' signs welcoming all and sundry. Not today though, eh? Sigh.
A locked church 😕
Anyway, I had a wander round the back of the church, ran my eyes over the pretty Kepier Hall (an old grammar school) and the neighbouring almhouses, whilst fending an enquiry from a little old lady about the day's W.I. meeting. My unhelpful response offered little in the way of fulfillment, and was to represent an apt metaphor for my own visit.
The Almshouses
We crossed the road to Rectory Park, looked the old Rectory up and down with not a little disappointment (which is the front, I wondered?) - it could really do with a bit of TLC, I thought - and set about looking for any trace of the old Gilpin Thorn. Now I know there isn't supposed to be any trace of it (or its successors) left, but I thought there may be a plaque or something lying around. I couldn't find anything - though I wasn't altogether sure exactly where I should be looking. If I missed something, please let me know.
My wife and I wandered back up through the shops, picked up a hot chocolate each and an egg and cress baguette at Greggs and retired to our car, a little colder and a good deal damper than when we left it.
Circumstances conspired against me today, I fear. Next time I will check to see if the church is open first. And pick a better day, weather-wise.
BTW, the Houghton Heritage Society website is quite excellent if you wish to learn more about the town.
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