Over the past year or three my wife and I have been trying to walk the entire North-East coast a bit at a time. That is, all the way from the Scottish border down to Staithes. Well, that's the plan, anyway.
The latest leg was the stretch from Alnmouth to Craster, which we ticked off over Friday 1st and Saturday 2nd April. Because of the limits of time, tides and the bus timetable we had to do this in awkward little bits and bobs. So stick with me ... and pay attention!
First of all we indulged ourselves with a visit to The Running Fox tearoom/cafe in Longhoughton ... to spend a Mother's Day voucher. The 'Afternoon Tea For One' was more than enough for the two of us, and, with unlimited lashings of free coffee, provided an excellent start to the day. Recommended!
It did, however, mean that we got off to a late-ish start for our walk - hence the main reason for us spreading it over the two days. The tricky tide times (dodgy stretch north of Alnmouth) and the impossibility of using the local bus service both helped the decision, too. We parked up at Longhoughton Beach (ensuring that we left the car on the near side of the final gate to avoid the 5pm lock-up deadline), and set off on the four-mile hike north to Craster.
Although we were aided by fabulous weather, I have to say that this stretch of coastline is among the best in the country. And it doesn't even include the stunning bit beyond Craster towards Dunstanburgh! The mixture of little sandy bays and rocky outcrops & inlets ensured a constant and exciting mix of drama and outstanding natural beauty. Swarms of Oystercatchers, wading sandpipers sweeping in and out with the waves and, er, oh, yes, a large dead seal provided the high- (and low-) lights of the day's excursion.
A sprinkling of notable features deserve special mention. The early dip into Whitefin Spring and its little bridge, the nearby Howick Hillfort, Rumbling Kern (& its beach), and the stunning Bathing House - once the play area of Earl Grey and his family. Then there's the swing round to Cullernose Point, followed by the long flat walk into Craster. Dunstanburgh Castle hones into view in the far distance - but we'd already walked that stretch a while back!
Craster provided refreshments and a chance to chill. A fabulous little place - though a walk up to the Information Centre was in vain (closed on a weekday). So we made do with an emptying of our respective bladders, and set out along the right-hand path behind the aforementioned Info Centre (marked, if memory serves, 'Howick Hall Gates'. Or was it 'Entrance'. Whatever).
The path took us over fields, through Craster South Farm, then due south to join a treeline - and, yes, as if by magic, to the gates of the aforementioned hall, conveniently avoiding any trespassing. Due east along a road towards the coast, then a sharp right (south) past the somewhat out-of-place 'Seahouses Farm' to rejoin the coastal path near the hillfort/Whitefin Spring. Thence back to the car.
Eager to get through and away from Low Stead Farm (you have to pass through this to get to and from Longhoughton Beach), we left just before 5pm and headed for nearby Boulmer. We parked in the car park to the south of the main body of the village, and walked north a mile or so until we touched our previous parking spot at Longhoughton Beach, then headed back south. Much more open and a little wilder this stretch, but you can (sort of) make a circular route by hugging the coast on the way out and following the boundary wall back.
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The next morning we pulled into Alnmouth Beach car park (£3.50 fee) and walked the three mile or so north to Boulmer, then back again. It began with a steep ascent of the hill overlooking the town (following the Coastal Path), past a sizeable old pillbox, then hugging the edge of Alnmouth Golf Course for a long stretch. The path then drops down onto the beach (this is the tricky tidal bit), after which there is a climb up to and through the straggly caravan park upon Seaton Point (check out the line of chalets, too, just proud of the beach - interesting!). The walk into Boulmer is then straightforward enough, passing, as you do, the gaping Boulmer Haven - though you may not notice this if the tide is in.
Boulmer has a pub, but nothing else in the refreshments stakes, so we scoffed our bait on the bench in the very same car park we had utilised the previous day, and headed back south to Alnmouth. But with the tide out we managed to do so along the beach the whole way, which was very nice. An ice cream van awaited us in the car park, so we helped ourselves to a couple of 99s with monkey's blood (raspberry flavour for me, thanks).
Boy, what a beautiful stretch of North-East coast Alnmouth-Craster is. And I am pleased to say that my dodgy ankle held up admirably, too.
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