The Strange Case of Spittal

Ordnance Survey (1897)

Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland

Like me, you've probably been to Berwick-upon-Tweed and the Border Country many, many times over the years. Maybe even Tweedmouth, too, on occasion. But perhaps not Spittal, which lies on the south bank of the Tweed where it spills out into the North Sea. Pop south over Berwick's 'Old Bridge', turn left and proceed for a few hundred yards along the river, and when you hit the RNLI Lifeboat Station, well, you've arrived. As regards the map above it is the area to the right of the little spikey bit jutting out into the Tweed towards the top of the image.

I first set eyes on the place a year or so ago when my North-East coastal walk took me north from Holy Island's causeway to the very tip of land that protrudes into the Tweed estuary. In the process, I passed along the rather splendid (and very quiet) Spittal Promenade, with its accompanying stretch of sandy beach. We called into the shop next to the amusement arcade for an ice cream, before returning to our car and heading back home. Apart from the aforementioned promenade and beach, Spittal did not seem to be especially alluring.

Then my wife and I returned to the very same car park a few days ago. We got the bus up to the Border, then walked back down the coast to our car - thus in the process, I'm pleased to say, completing our Staithes-to-the-Scottish Border expedition. We walked back through the upper reaches of Tweedmouth, along Dock Road, and then finally through the northern extremity of Spittal back to our car. It was only then that I noticed how interesting this little stretch of the lower Tweed valley was. Remnants of docks old and new, weird and wonderful flashes of architecture, and scraps of old industry - all hinting at a rather more interesting past than I had hitherto assumed. My wife, eager to get away, strode purposefully towards the car, threatening to leave me behind if I lingered too long gawping at various funny old buildings trying to work out what was what.

So when I got back home I thought I'd power up Google to see what I could uncover. And the story of this curious little corner of the North-East is, indeed, a very, very interesting one. Despite the fact that a huge amount of the old industrial landscape thereabouts was cleared in 2005, it is evident that the northern part of the village was thick with some very unpleasant industries in the past - chemical works, manure works, gas works and various sewerage facilities. Fortunately for the neighbouring settlements, though, the prevalent south-westerlies blew all the nasty smells out to sea ... well, most of the time, anyway.

But whilst all of this sensory unpleasantness was continuing full-pelt during the nineteenth century, a few hundred yards away down the seaboard to the south there existed a renowned tourist resort. Sea-bathing, of course, was to be had on that beautiful expanse of beach; but there was also the 'Spa Well' a little further south, and an increasing amount of holiday accommodations popping up, too. It was a strange old time.

I know so little about the place that I really need to go back there someday and have a proper look around - you know, when my wife is not with me. So rather than me go on and on about something I know very little about, I shall point you at two good online resources to help you gain a fuller understanding of Spittal's history. The first is the utterly excellent Berwick-upon-Tweed; Three Places, Two Nations, One Town by English Heritage (yes, the full book is freely available); and the second is a few useful pages here (though the images are sadly lacking). 

It all just goes to show you that the North-East of England is an endlessly interesting place, there always, always being a little corner somewhere that you've yet to poke your nose into.