Saturday 27 July 2024

Ascent of Durham Cathedral Central Tower

A few days ago I booked myself in for what I thought would be a 'tour' of the monstrously-high Central Tower of Durham Cathedral. At 218ft (66m) in height it has dominated everything within eyeshot of the city for several hundred years. Anyway, I booked online (£7.50) and made my way to the mighty edifice with some trepidation.

(click on images for expanded views)

I couldn't just go for the 'Tower Tour', of course. I got there early and had a general poke around. I'd been many times before, but the place is so immense that you always find something 'new' there - some artefact, corner, or memorial that you hadn't noticed previously.

This time I checked out the Chapter House (featured in a couple of the Harry Potter movies - hence all the kids milling about!), sought out the Bishop's Chair (or 'Cathedra' - a lofty affair, being the highest in Christendom, apparently), and admired the workmanship on the supporting pillars ... as well as the lovely examples of worked Frosterley Marble.



There's loads to see - far too much, really, for a single visit - so it's best to take things in in small bites over multiple visits. Anyway, it was now almost noon, so I made my way to the foot of the imposing spiral staircase next to the magnificent Prior Castell's Clock.


Having picked up my lanyard, I awaited my 'guide' ... only to be told that we were all to simply make the journey skyward unaccompanied. So off I trekked.

The climb starts off easily enough, but then begins to narrow - though not to the alarming extent that the ascent of Newcastle Cathedral tower does! But the task is a good deal more challenging, on account of there being an astonishing 320+ steps! It isn't easy, though there is a nice gallery half-way up providing information boards about the tower.

On emerging into the light at the tower's summit, you are free to wander as you wish over the rooftop. Strong stonework and iron railings prevent any chance of a trip to your doom, but it is, nevertheless, very, very high. I hung on firmly to my camera!

Looking down to the entrance.

The almost-as-impressive Western Towers - they had spires on them until 1658.

Durham Castle to the north.

What a view! ... towards HMP Durham in the east.

The tower is thought to have been originally built in the early thirteenth century, but after a lightning strike was replaced in the fifteenth century. There is a story that, originally, there was a plan to plant something ornamental on the tower's top - perhaps even a 'lantern' akin to that on Newcastle's cathedral. Now that would have been quite something! Further restoration followed during 1859-60, as well as various other repairs from time to time.

We had been allocated an hour for our self-led tour. It takes about ten minutes to get up there, the same to get (gingerly) down, and after ten or fifteen minutes of nausea-inducing sightseeing at the top, well, you'll probably find yourself back at ground level before your time is up.

Still worth it, though!

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