Monday 12 August 2024

I Went to Allenheads ... and it was Closed

Let me explain....

A few days ago I arrived in the Pennine village of Allenheads, after having caught the 688 bus from Hexham. It was a pleasant journey over hill and dale (via such outposts as Sinderhope, Sparty Lea and the much larger Allendale), and I wondered en route whether I'd remember the old place. It must have been many, many years since I'd last been - if I had been at all, that is.

I knew there was a visitor/heritage centre there, so I tried to phone ahead to check that it was open. No luck. I tried another number, which came up on my phone as being the local cafe. Again, no luck. So I just crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.

After alighting at the heart of the village, I didn't recognise a thing. It was very quiet. There, to my right, was the Allenheads Inn, To my left the community centre/library. And straight ahead was what I'd came to see, really: the Armstrong Engine, housed in its very own display centre/building. So I walked in to have a look:


Without spoiling it for you (as I'm sure you'll soon be winging your way there yourself), this contraption was built by the famous industrialist, William Armstrong, for his pal Thomas Sopwith, to provide the necessary hydraulically-powered oomph for his various activities in and around his lead mines. Installed in the 1840s, it was used in Sopwith's saw-milling and ore-crushing tasks, being fed by reservoirs around and about the little town. It is believed to be the last remaining engine of its type in the world.

Well, that's the main thing I came for, but what about the 'Heritage Centre'. I had a poke around the 'community centre/library' without success (the former was empty, and the latter was closed), then realised that I'd be best served following the signs up the road and round the corner. And there it was:


There was no one about, so I gingerly tried the latch. Turns out you just go in, switch on the lights and wander about unaccompanied. Here are a couple of shots of the downstairs smithy's workshop:



And upstairs can be found several cracking displays:



And there are plenty of information boards to fill you in on the village's leadmining past:


Near to the Heritage Centre can be found (down a driveway), the old church (now converted into a private residence):


Then there's the aforementioned Allenheads Inn:


... which was actually closed when I was there. In fact, the local cafe was closed, too, much to the frustration of both myself and several wandering visitors. There was no one around, actually ... which must have been quite a contrast to the leadmining heyday of the village. But as I had another hour to kill before my one-and-only return bus, I had a little wander around and about, thus:

Old mine shaft

The Horse Track entrance to the mine

Sopwith's old mine office building

Allenheads Mineyard

If you decide to call in for yourself, then you can park near to the Armstrong Engine building (just in front of where, below, it says 'No Parking', if you get my meaning). This is pretty much where the bus stops, too:


There's a handy guidebook on the history of the village and its industrial activities in the Heritage Centre. It's free - but do make a donation in the little pot in the smithy's workshop.

All-in-all, a nice trip out. When you visit, hopefully the cafe and/or pub will be open. Better take a bait just in case, though.

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