A Visit to St.Paul's Church, Jarrow

A short time ago I called in at St.Paul's Church, Jarrow, in what was my first visit for nigh on 30 years. And this is no ordinary parish church: for it is the site, too, of the monastic home of the Venerable Bede. So it looms large in our history. It was a fleeting visit, but is nonetheless worthy of mention as I should like to encourage you all to spare an hour or so of your own time in paying your own respects to a spot on the map that was once the scholastic capital of northern Europe.

If you do visit, then, like me, you'll probably find yourself all on your lonesome. For one thing, it's a bit out-of-the-way, hemmed in by the River Don to the east and south, and to the north and west by large tracts of industry and parkland. Also to the north, of course, you will find the tourist attraction that is 'Jarrow Hall: Anglo-Saxon Farm, Village & Bede Museum'.

The present church dates, in the main, to a period long after the 7th/8th century days of Bede, amounting to a hotch-potch of structures and additions from many different eras. Parts of the chancel, though, date from Bede's day; and a good deal of the remainder of the old monastic complex can be seen in ruinous form to the south of the church. The site (well, the monastic ruins, at least) are cared for by English Heritage, but can be freely roamed at any reasonable time during daylight hours.

The only individuals who were present on my visit were two members of staff who were hovering inside the entrance. They politely indicated the main points of interest, then left me to it.

Anglo-Saxon chancel

(click on image to enlarge)

Main point of interest is the chancel, which was essentially one of the two Anglo-Saxon churches that likely existed on the original site. The dedication stone which hovers over the chancel arch is dated 685AD, which makes it the oldest such stone in England. 

The original (sorry, out of focus)...

...and a replica

There is the tiny reconstructed stained glass window, too, containing ancient glass made in the old monastic workshops (and therefore making it, one could say, the oldest stained glass window in the world!). And then, of course, there is the so-called  Bede's Chair:

I should add, though, that the item does not date to the time of Bede. It's origins are not definitively known, but scientific tests indicate an origin some centuries after the days of the famous monk. Still, though, nice. 

Elsewhere in the church can be found some archaeological foundations in the main aisle, and an exhibition of Anglo-Saxon sculpture - as well as plenty of information boards and a nice gift shop. It's all free, but do leave a donation.

Outside one can wander what remains of the old monastic complex, all of which date from various eras. The more substantial lumps of stone date from the 11th century, but the foundations of earlier buildings are clearly discernible.

As is so often the case with the materialistic elements of our heritage here in the North-East, the whole site of St.Paul's Church and Monastery in Jarrow is charmingly understated - and, indeed, shockingly underappreciated. So do the decent thing and call in for yourself and have a poke around.

Farthing Pants

In the October 1887 edition of The Monthly Chronicle of North-Country Lore & Legend, a short article by a “William Wallace, of Newcastle” was published, thus:

Farthing Pants

The Whittle Dene Water Company was first established in Newcastle in 1846. Previous to this, the most of the better sort of houses in the town had pumps or wells in the rear of their premises; but the poorer class of the inhabitants had to carry all the water they used from the various pants in the town. Besides the numerous public pants, which, of course, were free and open to all, there were, in the more populous districts of the town, sources of supply called "farthing pants”, each being under the management of an old woman, who sat in a sort of watch or sentry box, armed with an enormous key, with which she turned on the water, and which ponderous key she always carried away when she went off duty. The sum of one farthing was charged for a "skeel" full of water, a skeel being a sort of tub with one handle, which was always carried on the head, being placed upon a "weeze", or cushion, so as to keep off the pressure, and, as the vessel held six or eight gallons, the weight was no trifle.

People now-a-days can hardly conceive the trouble and labour spent in obtaining a few gallons of pure water at this time. When a little lad, I have often made one of a crowd of women and children, patiently sitting round one of the public pants, waiting their "turn", the spout meanwhile running like a thread, at the rate, perhaps, of a gallon in ten minutes. All sorts of cunning dodges used to be tried to get a supply out of turn. Appeals, too, were often made to the sympathy and good nature of the crowd, such as: — "Aa ha’e ma man's dinner te get reddy. It’s varry neer twelve o'clock. Aa divvent knaa whaat te de. Thor’ll be a bonny gam if he cums in and aa's oot." A more successful plaint was, "Aa've left the bairn iv th' creddle, and nebody iv th' hoose beside it." This seldom failed of effect. One woman after another expressing her willingness to give up her "torn”, the complainer would get her supply, and hurry off to the bairn. But there were many disputes, leading to much bad language, and not unfrequently to the waste of the water which so much time and trouble had been spent to get. Any impudent attempt to take advantage was promptly resisted by the crowd, and I have often seen a woman deluged with the water that it had taken twenty minutes to gather.

Before the Whittle Dene Water Company began business the town was supplied by the Newcastle Joint-Stock Water Company. Its sources of supply were: — Carr's Hill, Coxlodge, Town Moor, private wells, and the river Tyne. The company had 32 pants, which supplied water to the public at the rate of a farthing a "skeel." The Corporation had also twenty public pants, which were free and open to all comers. Now, in 1845 there were 15,000 houses in Newcastle, but out of this number only 1,350 had the water laid on to them, the rent being from 18s. to 30s. per house, exclusive of closets, &c. That now despised coin, the farthing, I believe, has almost dropped out of circulation, but forty years ago it was in general currency. The old ladies who attended to the pants sat in watch-boxes, and in cold weather were always dressed in long, thick, warm overcoats, reaching down to their heels. They were not easily induced to give credit, the old lady who attended the pant on the New Road [City Road], at all events, being very particular. When urged by some poor woman, who was literally without a farthing in the world, she would exclaim, "Aa durna, hinny. They're varry partiklor at the offis, varry partiklor." When a suspicious-looking coin was offered to her, she would often reject it with the same words, "They're varry partiklor at the offis. Aa dinna think it's a good yen." She seemed to hold the "office" in awe and dread, which was not without effect upon her customers.

Lindisfarne Wander

A couple of Sundays ago my wife and I decided to visit the Holy Island of Lindisfarne for the first time in years. If you are a regular reader of this blog you will recall that we had, over the course of several years, finally completed our coastal walk of the North-East from the Scottish border down to Staithes. We've since added a bit more onto that to the south, but I was always bothered about the fact that we'd never actually walked the Holy Island Causeway. So we finally decided to have a go. 

First of all here's a rough map of ours travels:

(click on image to enlarge)

In all, about 10 miles in 4 hours. Quite easy, really.

As you can probably make out, we began at The Snook Car Park in (roughly) the middle of the picture. That way we avoided any car parking charges, and it was a nice central spot for our planned route.

First up was a short walk to the NW to see Snook Tower and Snook House:

Snook House is, of course, the fictional home of TV's Vera. 

Then we angled over the dunes to hit the expansive beach to the north, and then curved around to meet the island end of the causeway. Then it was a walk along the causeway to the mainland, followed by a prompt about-turn across the sand, eastwards, towards Lindisfarne village some three miles distant. We, of course, followed the line of posts which marks the so-called "Pilgrims' Way":

We should really have removed our boots for this part of the walk, but once you get to certain stage of wetness, well, there seems little point! So on we plodded...

We had a scare about three-quarters of the way over when my wife, Angie, sunk up to her knees in the mud. Naturally, she blamed me instantly, and I was then lambasted for not immediately rushing to her aid. Well, there wasn't much point in us BOTH getting mucky, was there?

Anyway, we finally made it to the village ... and it was rammed with visitors. We did a cursory tour of the usual touristy spots - the priory, St.Mary's Church, and the famous 'Petting Stone' (over which newly-wed brides are obliged to clamber after their wedding ceremony!):

After a quick visit to the viewing tower at the SW extremity of the island, we moved on to the remains of another very early chapel on the southern shore ...

... Before about-turning and heading for the castle:

And you've just GOT to get that classic shot of the castle fronted by those wonderful lime kilns:

And, on the eastern shore, this seems to be a thing nowadays. Nice:

We then followed the circular path around the eastern and northern sides of the island, before cutting once more over the dunes and onto that HUGE beach on the northern side of the island. Wow!:

And so back to the car. What a day! And I didn't forget to pick up a couple of obligatory bottles:

And that was, at last, the whole of the North-East coast done properly, then!