A Visit to St.Paul's Church, Jarrow

A short time ago I called in at St.Paul's Church, Jarrow, in what was my first visit for nigh on 30 years. And this is no ordinary parish church: for it is the site, too, of the monastic home of the Venerable Bede. So it looms large in our history. It was a fleeting visit, but is nonetheless worthy of mention as I should like to encourage you all to spare an hour or so of your own time in paying your own respects to a spot on the map that was once the scholastic capital of northern Europe.

If you do visit, then, like me, you'll probably find yourself all on your lonesome. For one thing, it's a bit out-of-the-way, hemmed in by the River Don to the east and south, and to the north and west by large tracts of industry and parkland. Also to the north, of course, you will find the tourist attraction that is 'Jarrow Hall: Anglo-Saxon Farm, Village & Bede Museum'.

The present church dates, in the main, to a period long after the 7th/8th century days of Bede, amounting to a hotch-potch of structures and additions from many different eras. Parts of the chancel, though, date from Bede's day; and a good deal of the remainder of the old monastic complex can be seen in ruinous form to the south of the church. The site (well, the monastic ruins, at least) are cared for by English Heritage, but can be freely roamed at any reasonable time during daylight hours.

The only individuals who were present on my visit were two members of staff who were hovering inside the entrance. They politely indicated the main points of interest, then left me to it.

Anglo-Saxon chancel

(click on image to enlarge)

Main point of interest is the chancel, which was essentially one of the two Anglo-Saxon churches that likely existed on the original site. The dedication stone which hovers over the chancel arch is dated 685AD, which makes it the oldest such stone in England. 

The original (sorry, out of focus)...

...and a replica

There is the tiny reconstructed stained glass window, too, containing ancient glass made in the old monastic workshops (and therefore making it, one could say, the oldest stained glass window in the world!). And then, of course, there is the so-called  Bede's Chair:

I should add, though, that the item does not date to the time of Bede. It's origins are not definitively known, but scientific tests indicate an origin some centuries after the days of the famous monk. Still, though, nice. 

Elsewhere in the church can be found some archaeological foundations in the main aisle, and an exhibition of Anglo-Saxon sculpture - as well as plenty of information boards and a nice gift shop. It's all free, but do leave a donation.

Outside one can wander what remains of the old monastic complex, all of which date from various eras. The more substantial lumps of stone date from the 11th century, but the foundations of earlier buildings are clearly discernible.

As is so often the case with the materialistic elements of our heritage here in the North-East, the whole site of St.Paul's Church and Monastery in Jarrow is charmingly understated - and, indeed, shockingly underappreciated. So do the decent thing and call in for yourself and have a poke around.